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COP29 Leaders|Helena Helmersson on H&M Group’s Vision: Leading the Path to Accessible Sustainable Fashion

Daniel Carter by Daniel Carter
November 5, 2024
H&M Group’s CEO Helena Helmersson(Photography: Nordic Business)

H&M Group’s CEO Helena Helmersson(Photography: Nordic Business)

In a world of limited resources, calling fast fashion “sustainable” might seem paradoxical. Yet for H&M Group, this ambition is backed by bold actions. As part of the Race to Zero initiative, the Swedish multinational aims to achieve net zero emissions long before 2050, H&M Group’s CEO, Helena Helmersson, plans to make sustainable fashion both accessible and impactful, striving to become circular and climate positive by 2040. This means not only reducing its footprint but transforming its operations so that products will no longer contribute to waste.

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Pushing Bold Actions for Real Change

“What we’re seeing is that business as usual is simply not an option,” Helmersson states. “The science is clear; we can’t continue at the pace we used to. Now is the time for ambitious actions.” To that end, H&M has launched a Green Investment team focused on reducing emissions, along with Energy Efficiency teams to support suppliers transitioning to renewable energy. In 2023, H&M issued a sustainability-linked bond, tying financing directly to its sustainability goals: increasing recycled material usage to 30%, cutting emissions in its own operations by 20%, and lowering Scope 3 emissions by 10% by 2025. “These are tangible, short-term actions that keep us accountable,” Helmersson adds, emphasizing the urgency of immediate progress.

Beyond finances, H&M is actively exploring new business models, from rentals and subscriptions to advanced recycling technologies. “We’re investing in garment-to-garment recycling, which could be transformative for the industry. Our partnerships with innovators like Renewcell have enabled us to incorporate Circulose®, a material made from recycled cotton waste, into our collections,” she notes. Another example, Infinna™, made from regenerated cotton waste, is being used in collaboration with the Circular Innovation Lab to create closed-loop systems. These advances are more than experiments; Helmersson believes they mark a turning point for the entire fashion industry.

Tackling Emissions Across the Supply Chain

As a global fashion leader, H&M’s supply chain spans multiple regions, many of which still rely heavily on fossil fuels. “One of our biggest challenges is that much of our supply chain is in regions without renewable energy. This requires a collective effort to push for change beyond our own operations,” Helmersson explains. H&M’s membership in the RE100 initiative underlines its commitment to 100% renewable electricity, with 90% of its purchased electricity already meeting this goal. “We are collaborating with others to impact the entire supply chain and to work with governments to promote renewable infrastructure in these regions.”

The company is also implementing internal carbon pricing to reflect emissions costs across design, production, and distribution decisions. “By attaching a price to our carbon output, our teams are more aware of the environmental impact of their choices,” Helmersson explains. This internal tool is designed to foster measurable, long-term behavior change across the organization.

Transforming Fast Fashion Through Circular Models

Asked whether fast fashion is inherently unsustainable, Helmersson acknowledges that if fast fashion is based on a “wear-and-dispose” mentality, it certainly can be. “That’s not what we stand for,” she clarifies. “Our commitment is to transition from the linear models of the past toward more resilient, circular approaches.” In line with this, H&M has committed to using 100% recycled or sustainably sourced materials by 2030, reaching 64.5% in 2022. “This is one of the fastest and most impactful ways we can reduce our footprint,” she explains.

“We must innovate beyond materials,” Helmersson continues. “We’re rethinking everything from how clothes are designed to how they’re used, so that nothing ends up as waste. The goal is for fashion to be reused and recycled again and again.” H&M’s Circular Innovation Lab is pioneering this effort, partnering with bioMASON to test bioLITH bricks—made with microbial technology and drastically reducing environmental impact—in office renovations. These efforts reflect the company’s dedication to embedding sustainability at every level of its operations.

A Call for Industry-Wide Change

Looking ahead, Helmersson sees collaboration as essential. “To bring about real change, we need an industry-wide commitment aligned with science,” she says. “As a global retailer, we have a big role to play, but we need governments, other companies, and individuals to step up too.” For H&M, leading on sustainability is about more than business; it’s a long-term commitment to customers and the planet. “Climate change is the greatest challenge of our time,” she states. “The steps we take now will determine our future as a business and as a society. We’re here to serve customers for generations to come—and we can’t do that without sustainability at our core.”

With bold goals set for the coming years, H&M Group’s mission is clear: to make sustainable fashion accessible, affordable, and transformative for all.

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Daniel Carter

Daniel Carter

Daniel Carter, Harvard University, MBA. Business columnist for 《The Icons》. Specializes in analyzing global market trends. I often unwind by playing jazz piano or experimenting with molecular gastronomy.

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